Monday, November 12, 2007

Sewing a Turkey

Possibilities

Write seven reasons to be thankful on tiny pieces of paper, and tie one to each button on the turkey's tail. Ask family members to read them during your Thanksgiving feast.

Materials

9 x 12-inch (22.9 x 30.5 cm) sheets felt: pumpkin, antique gold, two each;
cinnamon, hunter green, ruby, one each. (Note: Kunin Rainbow™ Felt Classic felt was used in the sample project.)
Embroidery floss: brown; gold
Sewing threads: black; natural linen
Needles: embroidery; sewing
Flat buttons: seven 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) assorted colors; 3/8-inch (1.0 cm)
off-white: two 4-hole; one 2-hole
4mm black beads, two
Brown/cream mini-check cotton fabric, 1 x 9-inch (2.5 x 22.9 cm) torn strip
Polyester fiberfill
Miscellaneous items: tracing paper; pencil; scissors; ruler; straight pins; hot
Glue gun
Full-size pattern (pdf file)
Instructions

Trace the patterns from the pattern section and cut as indicated.

To make each turkey section, align and pin the matching felt pieces.

See the illustration below to work blanket stitches around each section with three strands of floss. Use brown floss to stitch each tail and gold floss to stitch the body, lightly stuffing each section with fiberfill as you work.


Up at 1, down at 2. Up at 3 with thread below needle. Pull through.

Use brown floss to work stitches around each wing; do not stuff.

Use black thread to sew black bead eyes to the head where indicated by dots on the pattern.

Refer to the photo to hot-glue the beak and wattle below the eyes.

Use linen thread to sew an X in two 3/8-inch (1.0 cm) 4-hole buttons and a straight stitch in the 3/8-inch (1.0 cm) 2-hole button; knot ends.

Glue the buttons to the turkey's breast where indicated by dots, with the 2-hole button in the center.

Tie the fabric strip in a bow. Cut V’s in the ends. Glue the bow to the neck.

On a flat surface, align the two tails and body upright; pin in place.

Pin the wings behind the body with pointed ends down and round ends even with the neck.

Hot glue the body and wings to the small tail, and the small tail to the large tail, removing pins as each section is glued.

Thread each 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) button with a 6-inch (15.2 cm) length of linen thread. Tie a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bow on the front of the button; trim ends.

Refer to the pattern to glue a button/bow to each tail feather where indicated by dots.

Monday, November 5, 2007

Men's Suits - 6 Common Questions About Men's Suits Answered

Men's suits - I had the privilege to chat with Kim Johnson Gross, co-founder of Chic Simple Ltd and former fashion director of Esquire and Fashion Editor of Town & Country. Kim has also written monthly columns in InStyle magazine, and appeared on numerous television and talk shows as a leading consumer authority. During our conversation I thought I would present to her questions I have received from readers on the subject of men's suits and this is the result of our conversation.

Do you know where the "top 2 buttoned buttoned, lowest button undone" style originated and why?
Edward the VII was too large for his vest so he unbuttoned the bottom button and since he was king, all followed in his footsteps. This is one of the first known references to this trend.

However, it is also a designer thing and personal preference.
If you are shorter, unbuttoning the top button versus the bottom will give the illusion of being taller.

What is the case for a 4 button suit? Is the 4 button suit in style any longer?
Four button suits are not seen much these days and certainly aren’t a suit one would buy their first or second suit. It is more of a fashion suit, not a classic style. Also keep in mind that four button suits really look best on those that are tall and slim.

Does a man have to be a certain age to wear a double breasted suit?
No. But unless it is really your style, stay away from the double breasted suit. Again, not an appropriate first or second suit.

Are suit vests a thing of the past?
Suit vests are for dandies, but also seen in English, western, and evening looks. Not really seeing suit vests otherwise.

Are suits with no vents in the back a dated look?
Vents are definitely more European and shapelier. They are also a symbol of better tailoring.

Are pleats on trousers a bad idea?
First thing is that flat fronted trousers are always more flattering no matter what your size and age. Pleats bring attention to that area of the body.

A general note regarding suits:
Invest in a good suit—this is where your wardrobe dollars are best spent. Choose neutral colors like navy or gray. Browns and olives can be tricky and black suits had their moment, but are still great for evening or formal occasions. Also, suits should be comfortable, drape well, and move with you. And always keep in mind that richness in fabrics and good tailoring never go out of style.

Taken from ASK.Com (D. Billett)

Women. Clothes. Style. Ugh.

There’s a trend emerging on the Internet, and it isn’t pretty. Well, it is pretty, but it’s bad news for those of us with absolutely nothing to add to the conversation. Those of us without a sense of style.

I’m the kind of guy who thinks the protagonist in The Devil Wears Prada looked better before she started dressing in the latest styles and became popular with her coworkers. But apparently there are a lot of people who disagree with me. And based on the popularity of sites like PopSugar and Glam, this trend is making its way to the Internet big time.

Three new companies are testing out a new kind of social network - centered around (mostly) women’s fashion. In particular, the fashion of the users themselves is the primary content of these networks. All of these sites encourage members to take photos of themselves in new outfits and post them on the site. Social networks spring up around and between members, who comment on each other’s outfits, add people as friends, etc.

The oldest startup in this space is Los Angeles-based StyleDiary, which launched in May 2005. CEO Patricia Handschiegel started the company with her co-founder William Kapke after being in the fashion industry for years. StyleDiary has lots of passionate users, and Handshiegel tells me they are rolling out new social networking features in the near future. The only problem with the site is the poor quality of the photographs - users tend to take the photos themselves, with a mirror, often using a camera phone in poor lighting. The results are often less than great. The company says they are working on ways to auto-enhance photographs to increase quality.

ShareYourLook is a more recent entrant. They’ve copied most of the interesting features of StyleDiary and have added more “web 2.0″ features like photo ratings and bios. The result is a more user friendly site, although the image quality issue plagues them as well.

The final site, yet to launch, Shoutfit. This is a Y Combinator company that we first mentioned in November along with a few other’s in the Y Combinator family. There isn’t much information out yet on Shoutfit, but from what we hear it will be similar to StyleDiary and ShareYourLook.

Written by Michael Arrington

Diana: Years Later her Fashion was ahead of the game

Anyone who looks at Diana today might think her clothes ordinary, and lacking a fashion edge. The truth is that at the time they were quite forward looking and trend setting. As always, 20+ years later and after Diana's rise as one of the 20th century's greatest fashion icons, there are those who condemn Diana and her fashion taste. Recently, in a Sunday Times condensed book article there was a spiteful attack on Diana. Greer wrote, 'Diana was never a fashion icon; she dressed to the same demotic standard of elegance as TV anchorwomen do, plus the inevitable hat.'

I disagree. Diana did more for the fashion and flagging hat industry than either industry could ever thank her.

Reader check out my page on Laver's Law and see how easy it is to knock fashion icons as time moves forward. Why - well the familiar soon looks old fashioned. Fashion moves at a frightening pace. The rest of the world just loved following trends she set. Some observers felt safer wedded to their hippy looks of yesteryear. Others were setting a contrary trend of punk and other subculture styles. Most of us were pleased that Diana constantly moved us forward. Diana really was an outstanding fashion icon of her day, especially once she abandoned her early advisors and found her own style.

Princess Dianas Wedding Dress

Diana's Wedding Dress Set a Trend for Meringue Styles

The Princess supported many British designers beginning with Elizabeth and David Emanuel who designed her much criticized puff ball meringue wedding dress in 1981. The beautiful dress was based on a romantic look of huge puffed sleeves with a full skirt of ivory silk pure taffeta, old lace and hand embroidery incorporating 10,000 pearls and sequins.

The dress had a twenty five foot train and when the princess emerged from the carriage at the cathedral the world saw how creased the dress appeared. The creases soon dropped out, but the fabric and construction method used was criticized worldwide.

David Emanuel complained in a TV interview that the carriage was far too small for both Diana and her robustly built father along with her full skirted dress, hence the inevitable creases.

I think he was probably right - no fabric deserves to be treated that way.

Sewing Shank Buttons

Sewing Shank Buttons
Use a double strand of thread. Knot the end. Take a small stitch on the right side. Take a second stitch in same place.
Bring needle and thread through hole in shank.
Center button over stitch. Insert needle into fabric and pull through. (If length of shank is not sufficient, place a toothpick, needle, or pin under shank and continue as for sew-thru button.)
Bring needle and thread to right side. Take 3 or 4 stitches through shank.
Secure thread in fabric under button by making a knot or several small stitches.

Knitting Abbreviations - tips, ideas and such...

Knitting Abbreviation

Standard knitting abbreviations, terms and symbols are used in order to reduce knitting instructions length. If it were not for these shortened abbreviations and symbols, knitting patterns could take several pages. Below is the terminology and knitting pattern abbreviations to learn before you begin to knit.


alt

alternate
approx
approximately

beg

begin, beginning

CC

contrasting color

ch

chain

cm(s)

centimeter(s)

cn

cable needle

cont continue, continuing
c2b cable to back
c4b cable 4 back
c2f cable to front
c4f cable 4 front
dec(s) decrease(s), decreasing
dp double pointed
dpn double-pointed needles
foll following
g grams
inc(s)
increase(s), increasing

join attatch yarn
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
k2tog tbl knit 2 stitches together through back loop
k-wise insert needle as though to knit
LH left-hand
lp loop
m meters
M1 make 1
MC main color
oz(s) ounces
p purl
p2tog purl 2 stitches together
p2tog tbl purl 2 stitches together through back loop
pat pattern
pm place marker
psso pass slipped stitch over the knitted one
p-wise insert needle as though to purl
rem remaining
rep repeat
RH right-hand
RS right side
rnd(s) round(s)
sk skip
SKP slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over
SK2P slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together
sl slip
sl-k slip 1 stitch knitwise
sl-p slip 1 stitch purlwise
sl st slip stitch
ssk slip, slip, knit
st(s) stitch(es)
St st Stockinette stitch
thru through
tbl through back of loop
tog together
work even to keep in pattern across the row
WS wrong side
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front
yb yarn back
yd(s) yards
yf yarn forward
yo yarn over needle
* work instructions immediately following *, then repeat as directed.
[ ] repeat instructions within brackets as many times as indicated
- the number of sts that should be on your needles or across a row is given after a dash at the end of the row. (ths serves as a check point mostly after a section of increasing or decreasing).
+ plus signs indicate that you should repeat something between the plus signs.

All you wanted to know about SILK

Merely mentioning silk causes the mind to think luxury. Reading how silk is made and the history behind the production of silk is absolutely fascinating... and makes understanding the cost associated with silk seem like a bargain! The variations in silk prices come from the variety of silkworms and the quality of the cocoons associated with the type of worm.
Sericulture is the production of raw silk by raising silkworms. The main producers of silk are China and Japan. China is credited with the first production of silk around 3000BC. Production of silkworms relies on many environmental elements which affect the feasibility of silk production in other parts of the world.

Silk fibers are collected from cocoons of the silk worm which is the caterpillar stage of the silk moth Bombyx mori.


The silk worms are treated to a luxurious life to produce their cocoons. Their environment is kept at controlled temperatures through their life cycles to insure they will live to produce a cocoon. The worm stage is fed crushed mulberry leaves around the clock, allowing it to multiply its weight 10,000 times within a month.
Each silkworm cocoon is made up of a single fiber that is 600 to 900 meters long. Five to eight strands of the filament that are unwound from a silk worm cocoon are used to create silk thread. The silk thread is then used to create silk fabric. Imagine how many silkworms were breed to produce one silk blouse!

How To Sew a Christmas Tree Skirt - 72" Finished Skirt for a Large Tree

These directions sew a Christmas tree skirt that is approximately 72" wide when complete, for a large Christmas tree. When complete this skirt that extends about 36" from the trunk.
Using a serger makes this project a snap but if you don't own a serger, use zigzag stitches and baby hems to create your own version of this Christmas tree skirt.

Difficulty: Average
Time Required: 8 to 10 hours
Here's How:

Materials needed:
Fabric - 6 1/2 yards of 45" wide fabric (4 yards for the body of the skirt & 2 1/2 yards for the ruffle)
Lace or trim if you don't want a ruffle
Thread - lots of it if you are going to use your serger for rolled hems
A serger with a rolled hem plate
For the body of the skirt, cut your 4 yard length of fabric into two 2 yard lengths.
Sew a seam along 1 yard of the 2 yard length. The un-seamed area will become your opening for the back.
Fold the fabric in half along the seamed edge and then in half again to form a square.

Using a 36" piece of string with a pencil attached to one end, hold the sting at your folded corner and make a circular mark at the raw edges. Repeat this procedure with a 3" string to create a center circle for the trunk opening.
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Leaving the fabric folded, cut along your pencil lines.
Make 4" strips out of your remaining fabric for a ruffle. Join the strips together at their narrow ends. Use your serger to make rolled hem along one raw edge.
Serge the back opening edges and center circular opening of the body of the skirt, to finish the raw edge.
Use a ruffler or a long basting stitch along the raw edge of your ruffle strip to gather it. Attach it to the outer edge of the circle.
Using the regular plate on your serger finish the edge of the seam, press toward the body of the skirt and top stitch it down.
If you want a lace edge, finish the edge of the circle and attach the lace.

Tips:

When making the rolled hems, use a short stitch length. You can be creative by using thread to match one color from the print rather then the background color.
If you have a sewing machine with embroidery capabilities, stitch the year near the back edge as a reminder of the year you made it.
To change the size of the skirt, visualize and sketch a square to calculate the amount of fabric you will need.
If you don't have a serger, you can zigzag the body edges and baby hem the ruffle.

Tips for Sewing with Chiffon

Chiffon and other lightweight fabrics drape beautifully and work well for designs with soft tucks, gathering or shirring. These fabrics often are used in multiple layers. Choose simple designs with few seams.
To prevent distortion, cut chiffon in a single layer. Cut on a padded cutting board or cover the cutting surface with a sheet or tissue paper to help keep the fabric from slipping. Use pattern weights or pin into the seam allowances only using fine, sharp pins. Cut with a sharp shears or rotary cutter.

Sew with a good quality mercerized cotton thread or extra-fine cotton-covered polyester thread.

A fine needle, size 60/8, 65/9 or 70/10 is necessary. Note: The lower the number, the finer the needle.

Hand-basting seams will enable you to sew them without pins, reducing the chance of distortion or stretching. Stitching through tissue paper or a lightweight stabilizer also may help.

Hold the thread ends when beginning sewing and stitch with 12- to 20 stitches per inch. A straight-stitch needle plate can help prevent the fabric from being pulled down into the feed dogs and jamming. A test seam will allow you to make adjustments for your fabric and sewing machine.

Remember, because chiffon is sheer, all the construction details--seams, darts, hems and facings--show through to the garment outside. Single thread darts, narrow hems and French seams are recommended.

A double-stitched seam also works well on chiffon. Sew a 5/8" seam with a straight stitch or a very narrow zigzag stitch. Stitch a second row of straight or slightly wider zigzag stitches 1/8" from the first. Trim close to the second stitching (Figure