Virgin wool comes straight from the sheep to the mill without any previous processing. Worsted wool is a popular fabric woven from long, straight fibers with a high thread count; the surface is clear and smooth, with a weave that's obvious to the naked eye. Three species provide such distinctive wool that they are rarely called wool: Mohair comes from the Angora goat. [Angora wool is from the Angora rabbit.] Cashmere is from the Kashmir sheep. Camel hair (usually used in blazers only) is actually from camels.
Super 100 (also 120, 140, 150 & 180) refers to the length (in centimeters) one woolen yarn can be stretched; the longer the pull, the better the fabric. Becoming more popular in clothing, they are lighter weight, more lustrous and softer because of their tight weave.
The vent is the split in the back of the jacket extending from just below the waist to the lower hem. It makes it possible to sit on a chair without sitting on your jacket. Some suits aren't vented; a single-vented suit has the split in the middle, double-vented has one along each side seam of the jacket.
Solids remain the most popular pattern, but several others are always stylish: Pin-stripes are almost unnoticeably thin, and chalk-stripes are noticeable but not overwhelming. These are vertical and in contrasting color, while shadow stripes are a different shade of the main color. Window pane suits have a two-tone check of pin-stripes.
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Men's Suit Sizing
Jacket size is based on chest and sleeves. For example, if your chest measures 44 inches and you shirt is 16x35 (16-inch neck and 35-inch sleeves) you'd probably wear a 44L suit. The end of the sleeves should come just to the wrist and be a couple of inches shorter than your shirt sleeves.
Suit sizes don't specify trouser size because of 'drop.' The standard drop varies; for example, a 42L suit usually has a 6-inch drop, meaning its trousers have a 36-inch waist. Good suits come unfinished, allowing for individual tailoring. Any respectable clothing store has a tailor on the premises and will charge only a small fee to alter a suit you didn't buy from them. By the way, there is a difference between European and American cuts. As a general rule, Euro-fit is a size larger than American--a European large is like an American medium.
Suit sizes don't specify trouser size because of 'drop.' The standard drop varies; for example, a 42L suit usually has a 6-inch drop, meaning its trousers have a 36-inch waist. Good suits come unfinished, allowing for individual tailoring. Any respectable clothing store has a tailor on the premises and will charge only a small fee to alter a suit you didn't buy from them. By the way, there is a difference between European and American cuts. As a general rule, Euro-fit is a size larger than American--a European large is like an American medium.
Men's Suits Buying Tips
Cheap fabric is the best way to discern a cheap suit. One might think the universe came up with sheep just so men could have great suits, as no manmade fiber comes close in appearance or durability. A well-made wool blend (at least 50-percent wool, the rest polyester) is almost as good as pure wool; it's also lighter, cooler and less expensive.
Pure polyester suits can look very good; they might even look and feel like wool, but they won't last as long. Polys are perfectly acceptable as men's causal suits or men's business suits, but beware of polyester for the more formal events.
There are several other fabric options available, some of which deserve little consideration. Linen and cotton are great for warmer weather, but they wrinkle easily. Corduroy and denim are fine as men's causal suits and acceptable for some what's called 'casual business' wear. Leather suits are rare, expensive and very high maintenance and, unless you're a rock star, it probably won't look that good on you.
Mohair and silk are softer, warmer, more luxurious and better in every way, except price. For men's luxury suits, you will pay extra--but you'll probably be glad you did!
Pure polyester suits can look very good; they might even look and feel like wool, but they won't last as long. Polys are perfectly acceptable as men's causal suits or men's business suits, but beware of polyester for the more formal events.
There are several other fabric options available, some of which deserve little consideration. Linen and cotton are great for warmer weather, but they wrinkle easily. Corduroy and denim are fine as men's causal suits and acceptable for some what's called 'casual business' wear. Leather suits are rare, expensive and very high maintenance and, unless you're a rock star, it probably won't look that good on you.
Mohair and silk are softer, warmer, more luxurious and better in every way, except price. For men's luxury suits, you will pay extra--but you'll probably be glad you did!
How to make your bulge look bigger in jeans,,
This works for me: With the idea of pulling the fabric tighter across the crotch, hence giving definition to underlying items, underwear that enhances the ass cheeks takes extra fabric in that area, yielding less for the front. This is one reason the bubble butts generally show larger packages in front.
World Traveler - here are the TOP 5 Tailors Internationally
Number 5
Henry Poole
15 Savile Row, London, England
Another name that is synonymous with Savile Row and the first Savile Row tailor to enter the Japanese market, Henry Poole’s list of famous clients and dignitaries sparkles. Just a few to pique your interest: Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle and the Duke of Windsor. Poole’s talented team of tailors undertakes quarterly journeys to the United States, covering 10 cities between New York and San Francisco. The company’s senior cutters also regularly visit France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
Number 4
Gianni Campagna
Via Palestro, Milan, Italy
Mr. Campagna apprenticed at an early age at the top tailor shop of the era, Sartoria Domenico Caraceni. His awards include the Golden Needle for Italy’s finest tailor and the Golden Scissors for Italy’s best pattern and fabric cutter. Gianni Campagna’s creations adorn many prestigious names in Hollywood and Wall Street, such as Pierce Brosnan, Jack Nicholson, Charlton Heston, and Revlon’s Ron Perelman. A limited edition of 700 pieces of Gianni Campagna clothing are produced each year, including three suits a week in the $5,000 range.
Number 3
William Fioravanti
45 West 57th St., New York, New York
Frequently acknowledged as the “best of the best,” William Fioravanti’s credentials are impressive. President of the Custom Tailors and Designers Association of America, Fioravanti hails from a long line of great Neapolitan tailors and was awarded the Golden Scissors by the Academy of Master Tailors in Italy. Fioravanti charges up to $10,500 for a bespoke suit in Super 220 merino wool, of which $5,000 covers the cost of approximately four yards of cloth; he sells at least 12 suits at that price each year.
Number 2
Ascot Chang
Kimberly Road, Hong Kong, China
With a list of celebrity clientele that includes former U.S. President George Bush, Ascot Chang obviously has something special. Those in the know flock to one of their locations -- Hong Kong, 57th St. in Manhattan or Beverly Hills -- for their fine custom-tailored shirts.
DRUM ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL...............
Number 1
Gieves & Hawkes
1 Savile Row, London, England
Since the late 18th century, the tailors at No. 1 Savile Row have fitted some of the United Kingdom's most famous historical figures -- George III and Admiral Lord Nelson among them. Intact Royal Warrants of Appointment to the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales will ensure Gieves & Hawkes' place in tomorrow's history books; approximately $5,000 (to start) will secure your own bespoke legacy.
Henry Poole
15 Savile Row, London, England
Another name that is synonymous with Savile Row and the first Savile Row tailor to enter the Japanese market, Henry Poole’s list of famous clients and dignitaries sparkles. Just a few to pique your interest: Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle and the Duke of Windsor. Poole’s talented team of tailors undertakes quarterly journeys to the United States, covering 10 cities between New York and San Francisco. The company’s senior cutters also regularly visit France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
Number 4
Gianni Campagna
Via Palestro, Milan, Italy
Mr. Campagna apprenticed at an early age at the top tailor shop of the era, Sartoria Domenico Caraceni. His awards include the Golden Needle for Italy’s finest tailor and the Golden Scissors for Italy’s best pattern and fabric cutter. Gianni Campagna’s creations adorn many prestigious names in Hollywood and Wall Street, such as Pierce Brosnan, Jack Nicholson, Charlton Heston, and Revlon’s Ron Perelman. A limited edition of 700 pieces of Gianni Campagna clothing are produced each year, including three suits a week in the $5,000 range.
Number 3
William Fioravanti
45 West 57th St., New York, New York
Frequently acknowledged as the “best of the best,” William Fioravanti’s credentials are impressive. President of the Custom Tailors and Designers Association of America, Fioravanti hails from a long line of great Neapolitan tailors and was awarded the Golden Scissors by the Academy of Master Tailors in Italy. Fioravanti charges up to $10,500 for a bespoke suit in Super 220 merino wool, of which $5,000 covers the cost of approximately four yards of cloth; he sells at least 12 suits at that price each year.
Number 2
Ascot Chang
Kimberly Road, Hong Kong, China
With a list of celebrity clientele that includes former U.S. President George Bush, Ascot Chang obviously has something special. Those in the know flock to one of their locations -- Hong Kong, 57th St. in Manhattan or Beverly Hills -- for their fine custom-tailored shirts.
DRUM ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL...............
Number 1
Gieves & Hawkes
1 Savile Row, London, England
Since the late 18th century, the tailors at No. 1 Savile Row have fitted some of the United Kingdom's most famous historical figures -- George III and Admiral Lord Nelson among them. Intact Royal Warrants of Appointment to the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales will ensure Gieves & Hawkes' place in tomorrow's history books; approximately $5,000 (to start) will secure your own bespoke legacy.
When Should You Have Clothing Altered?
When should you alter a garment and when isn't it worth it? To alter or not to alter-this is a question that should be answered before you make a purchase.
If you are a seamstress and can do the alterations yourself, go for it. You will save a lot of money and may even get customers among your family and friends.
If you can't do the alterations yourself, here are some things to help you decide if the garment is worth altering or if the garment can be altered.
Just remember: it is always easier to take in a garment than to let it out. Too big is always better than too small.
ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD BE DONE
Minor alterations such as shortening pants, skirts, jacket, and sleeves. These alterations are usually not complicated.
Taking in the waist and hips of jackets, pants and skirts on lined and unlined garments. Jackets can also be taken in under the arm an inch or less (1" from the front and 1" from the back for a total of 2 inches. Depending on the style of the jacket, your seamstress or tailor may be able to take out an additional amount from other seams. Pictured below is a jacket whose waist needs to be taken in. Although it is a lined jacket, this alteration can be easily done by an experienced seamstress or tailor.
A section of a seam that has come apart. This can easily be re-sewn. Be careful, though, if the seam has unraveled, because too much may have to be taken in to fix it.
Lengthening pants, skirts, jackets and sleeves-as long as there is enough fabric in the hem or seam to lengthen. A major increase, such as 1" or more would probably be a problem.
ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD NOT BE DONE
If the garment needs to be lengthened and there is not enough fabric in the hem. Lengthening most garments about 3/4 of an inch or less will leave just enough fabric to turn under and re-sew.
Taking in garments that are more than 2 sizes too big. Three or more sizes too big will affect the garment's proportions, which cannot be fixed unless the entire garment is taken apart, a custom pattern is made for your body, and the garment is re-cut and re-made. This is a lot of work and will cost you dearly, that's if you can find someone willing to do it.
Letting out garments made of special fabrics like leather or velvet. Because the sewing machine needle puts tiny holes in leather, letting out the garment will allow the holes from the original stitching line to show. There is no way to fix this. Likewise on velvet, there is no way to stop the original stitching line from showing.
Letting out sequined or beaded garments. There may not be enough seam allowance to let the garment out and finding matching sequins or beads may be close to impossible. Also, the work involved in hand beading may cost you more than you paid for the garment, depending on how much needs to be altered.
Rips or tears no where near a seam. Any repair will show. The only exception would be if it can be covered with some type of embellishment or applique. This will only work if the style of the garment permits.
Raising the crotch in pants. Raising from the waist is not a good idea because it throws everything out of proportion, especially if there are pockets. Leave them in the store, give them away or sell them on eBay.
If you are a seamstress and can do the alterations yourself, go for it. You will save a lot of money and may even get customers among your family and friends.
If you can't do the alterations yourself, here are some things to help you decide if the garment is worth altering or if the garment can be altered.
Just remember: it is always easier to take in a garment than to let it out. Too big is always better than too small.
ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD BE DONE
Minor alterations such as shortening pants, skirts, jacket, and sleeves. These alterations are usually not complicated.
Taking in the waist and hips of jackets, pants and skirts on lined and unlined garments. Jackets can also be taken in under the arm an inch or less (1" from the front and 1" from the back for a total of 2 inches. Depending on the style of the jacket, your seamstress or tailor may be able to take out an additional amount from other seams. Pictured below is a jacket whose waist needs to be taken in. Although it is a lined jacket, this alteration can be easily done by an experienced seamstress or tailor.
A section of a seam that has come apart. This can easily be re-sewn. Be careful, though, if the seam has unraveled, because too much may have to be taken in to fix it.
Lengthening pants, skirts, jackets and sleeves-as long as there is enough fabric in the hem or seam to lengthen. A major increase, such as 1" or more would probably be a problem.
ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD NOT BE DONE
If the garment needs to be lengthened and there is not enough fabric in the hem. Lengthening most garments about 3/4 of an inch or less will leave just enough fabric to turn under and re-sew.
Taking in garments that are more than 2 sizes too big. Three or more sizes too big will affect the garment's proportions, which cannot be fixed unless the entire garment is taken apart, a custom pattern is made for your body, and the garment is re-cut and re-made. This is a lot of work and will cost you dearly, that's if you can find someone willing to do it.
Letting out garments made of special fabrics like leather or velvet. Because the sewing machine needle puts tiny holes in leather, letting out the garment will allow the holes from the original stitching line to show. There is no way to fix this. Likewise on velvet, there is no way to stop the original stitching line from showing.
Letting out sequined or beaded garments. There may not be enough seam allowance to let the garment out and finding matching sequins or beads may be close to impossible. Also, the work involved in hand beading may cost you more than you paid for the garment, depending on how much needs to be altered.
Rips or tears no where near a seam. Any repair will show. The only exception would be if it can be covered with some type of embellishment or applique. This will only work if the style of the garment permits.
Raising the crotch in pants. Raising from the waist is not a good idea because it throws everything out of proportion, especially if there are pockets. Leave them in the store, give them away or sell them on eBay.
How to care for a Silk Blouse
Introduction
A blousy silk top is a great addition to any wardrobe. It is a terrific professional look and also works well for an evening out. Often the best solution for keeping the color and look of your blouse is to have it dry cleaned, but many silks these days can be handwashed. Follow these steps to help your silk last a lifetime.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Fill your sink or bathtub with warm water and a neutral soap. Place the blouse in the soapy water.
2
Step Two
Soak the blouse for about 20 minutes or longer if stained. After soaking, rinse the garment with warm water. Lay the garmet between two towels, then roll and squeeze to remove excess water. Do not wring out.
3
Step Three
Air dry flat. Do not dry in dryer or hang to dry. Drying in the dryer can cause damage to the blouse and hanging the garment can cause pulling in the fabric.
4
Step Four
Fold the garment and keep it in a drawer instead of on a hanger. Just fold by holding the collar and meeting the sleeves together, then fold in half. Place tissue paper inside your drawer before you place the folded blouse to insure the garmet does not get snagged.
Tips & Warnings
Folding silk garments is best since hanging silk can leave hanger marks on the garment if it hangs too long and the fabric can be snagged by other hangers.
A blousy silk top is a great addition to any wardrobe. It is a terrific professional look and also works well for an evening out. Often the best solution for keeping the color and look of your blouse is to have it dry cleaned, but many silks these days can be handwashed. Follow these steps to help your silk last a lifetime.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Fill your sink or bathtub with warm water and a neutral soap. Place the blouse in the soapy water.
2
Step Two
Soak the blouse for about 20 minutes or longer if stained. After soaking, rinse the garment with warm water. Lay the garmet between two towels, then roll and squeeze to remove excess water. Do not wring out.
3
Step Three
Air dry flat. Do not dry in dryer or hang to dry. Drying in the dryer can cause damage to the blouse and hanging the garment can cause pulling in the fabric.
4
Step Four
Fold the garment and keep it in a drawer instead of on a hanger. Just fold by holding the collar and meeting the sleeves together, then fold in half. Place tissue paper inside your drawer before you place the folded blouse to insure the garmet does not get snagged.
Tips & Warnings
Folding silk garments is best since hanging silk can leave hanger marks on the garment if it hangs too long and the fabric can be snagged by other hangers.
How to Sew on a Button
Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end of the thread.
Position the button on the fabric. Line the button up with the other buttons on the garment.
Push the threaded needle up through the fabric and through one hole in the button. Pull the thread all the way up.
Place a pin across the center of the button and hold it there until the next stitch helps keep it in place. When the pin is withdrawn later, it will allow the slack necessary to create a "shank" so that there will be space between behind the button for the material that will need to go there when the garment is buttoned.
Push the needle down through the next hole and through the fabric. On a 4-hole button choose the one diagonal to the first hole if you want the threads to cross in an "X" formation. If you want two parallel lines of thread showing, choose the next hole that is opposite the first. Still holding the pin in place, pull the thread all the way through. Once that is done, the pin will be kept in place by the thread.
Bring the needle up through the first hole (for a 2-hole button) or a new hole (for a 4-hole button) and pull the thread all the way through the fabric.
Repeat the sewing process enough times to make sure the button is securely in place. On 4-hole buttons, make sure that the stitches have been made evenly, so that all four holes are equally used.
On the last stitch, push the needle through the material, but not through a hole in the button. Pull the thread out into the area between button and material, remove the pin and pull up the button a little. Twist the thread six times around the thread between between the button and the material to reinforce the shank you have created. Then push the needle back down through the material.
Tie a knot underneath. Then make another knot for extra secureness and cut off excess thread.
Position the button on the fabric. Line the button up with the other buttons on the garment.
Push the threaded needle up through the fabric and through one hole in the button. Pull the thread all the way up.
Place a pin across the center of the button and hold it there until the next stitch helps keep it in place. When the pin is withdrawn later, it will allow the slack necessary to create a "shank" so that there will be space between behind the button for the material that will need to go there when the garment is buttoned.
Push the needle down through the next hole and through the fabric. On a 4-hole button choose the one diagonal to the first hole if you want the threads to cross in an "X" formation. If you want two parallel lines of thread showing, choose the next hole that is opposite the first. Still holding the pin in place, pull the thread all the way through. Once that is done, the pin will be kept in place by the thread.
Bring the needle up through the first hole (for a 2-hole button) or a new hole (for a 4-hole button) and pull the thread all the way through the fabric.
Repeat the sewing process enough times to make sure the button is securely in place. On 4-hole buttons, make sure that the stitches have been made evenly, so that all four holes are equally used.
On the last stitch, push the needle through the material, but not through a hole in the button. Pull the thread out into the area between button and material, remove the pin and pull up the button a little. Twist the thread six times around the thread between between the button and the material to reinforce the shank you have created. Then push the needle back down through the material.
Tie a knot underneath. Then make another knot for extra secureness and cut off excess thread.
Basic sewing skills can help you repair fabric items around the household.
Many household sewing repairs can be completed with a few stitches, either by hand or on a sewing machine. Clothing, blankets, towels, dolls, upholstered furniture, and other items made with fabric occasionally need fixing. Seams and hems come unstitched. Tears and holes happen. You'll need needles, pins, thread, and scissors. If you use a machine, follow the manufacturer's instructions.
First, match the thread to the project. Use poly-wrap polyester for most fabrics, but cotton-wrap polyester works well for jeans. If you're not sure what thread or needle to use, ask at your fabric shop.
The back stitch is the hand alternative of the sewing machine straight stitch. It can be used to repair a seam. Insert a threaded needle (be sure to knot the thread) from below the fabric layers 1/8 inch to the left of where your stitching should begin. Pull the thread through the fabric until the knot is snug against the fabric. Then insert the needle 1/8 inch behind where the thread emerges. Then bring the thread up 1/4 inch beyond this insertion and pull the thread up snug. Bring the needle up 1/4 inch beyond the latest insertion and pull through. Continue stitching as far as needed.
A slip stitch can be used to repair a seam from the top. Push a threaded needle (be sure to knot the thread) through the material on one side of the opening, and then on the other. Continue until the seam is closed.
An overhand stitch is useful for reattaching fabric parts, such as an ear or limb of a stuffed animal. Begin by pushing the needle diagonally from the back edge of the opening to the front. Then inset the needle behind the first stitch and bring it out a stitch length away. Continue until the repair is completed.
The cross stitch will hold patches securely in place. Begin by sewing a series of angled stitches across the edge of the patch. When you reach the end of the seam or the outline of the patch, reverse direction and sew back over each of the angled stitches.
Text by Dan & Judy Ramsey - from "If It's Broke, Fix It!"
Copyright Fix-It Club® © 2003
First, match the thread to the project. Use poly-wrap polyester for most fabrics, but cotton-wrap polyester works well for jeans. If you're not sure what thread or needle to use, ask at your fabric shop.
The back stitch is the hand alternative of the sewing machine straight stitch. It can be used to repair a seam. Insert a threaded needle (be sure to knot the thread) from below the fabric layers 1/8 inch to the left of where your stitching should begin. Pull the thread through the fabric until the knot is snug against the fabric. Then insert the needle 1/8 inch behind where the thread emerges. Then bring the thread up 1/4 inch beyond this insertion and pull the thread up snug. Bring the needle up 1/4 inch beyond the latest insertion and pull through. Continue stitching as far as needed.
A slip stitch can be used to repair a seam from the top. Push a threaded needle (be sure to knot the thread) through the material on one side of the opening, and then on the other. Continue until the seam is closed.
An overhand stitch is useful for reattaching fabric parts, such as an ear or limb of a stuffed animal. Begin by pushing the needle diagonally from the back edge of the opening to the front. Then inset the needle behind the first stitch and bring it out a stitch length away. Continue until the repair is completed.
The cross stitch will hold patches securely in place. Begin by sewing a series of angled stitches across the edge of the patch. When you reach the end of the seam or the outline of the patch, reverse direction and sew back over each of the angled stitches.
Text by Dan & Judy Ramsey - from "If It's Broke, Fix It!"
Copyright Fix-It Club® © 2003
What is an Original Hem?
Have you ever wondered how to get your jeans to be the perfect length and still preserve their unique styling details and leg opening? Well, the answer is simple. An original hem (sometimes called a tricky hem or European hem) maintains the integrity of your jeans because the original hem of the jean is kept in tact. Original hems can be done be cutting the jeans or by following the uncut method. Daily Denim agrees that original hems may change the common misconceptions people have about hemming jeans. Jeans, just like almost every other item of clothing, may need a bit of tailoring to achieve a perfect fit. It just so happens that length is the easiest alteration you can make to help you achieve a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Original hems are the perfect solution for anyone who does not want to loose the signature look of their jeans.
Sure, there are some common misconceptions about what an original hem may do to hurt the look of your denim. In a great post on DailyDenim a few of these were mentioned, such as: The flare is lost once hemmed, getting clothing hemmed is a hassle, even issues having to do with stitching and destruction on the hem being lost once hemmed is discussed.
Good tailors are usually able to alter jeans using the original hem method for a slightly higher cost than a regular hem.Don't let the inseam length dictate which pair of jeans you wear. Choose your fashion, don't let fashion choose you!
Sure, there are some common misconceptions about what an original hem may do to hurt the look of your denim. In a great post on DailyDenim a few of these were mentioned, such as: The flare is lost once hemmed, getting clothing hemmed is a hassle, even issues having to do with stitching and destruction on the hem being lost once hemmed is discussed.
Good tailors are usually able to alter jeans using the original hem method for a slightly higher cost than a regular hem.Don't let the inseam length dictate which pair of jeans you wear. Choose your fashion, don't let fashion choose you!
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