Sunday, October 28, 2007

When Should You Have Clothing Altered?

When should you alter a garment and when isn't it worth it? To alter or not to alter-this is a question that should be answered before you make a purchase.

If you are a seamstress and can do the alterations yourself, go for it. You will save a lot of money and may even get customers among your family and friends.

If you can't do the alterations yourself, here are some things to help you decide if the garment is worth altering or if the garment can be altered.

Just remember: it is always easier to take in a garment than to let it out. Too big is always better than too small.

ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD BE DONE

Minor alterations such as shortening pants, skirts, jacket, and sleeves. These alterations are usually not complicated.
Taking in the waist and hips of jackets, pants and skirts on lined and unlined garments. Jackets can also be taken in under the arm an inch or less (1" from the front and 1" from the back for a total of 2 inches. Depending on the style of the jacket, your seamstress or tailor may be able to take out an additional amount from other seams. Pictured below is a jacket whose waist needs to be taken in. Although it is a lined jacket, this alteration can be easily done by an experienced seamstress or tailor.


A section of a seam that has come apart. This can easily be re-sewn. Be careful, though, if the seam has unraveled, because too much may have to be taken in to fix it.
Lengthening pants, skirts, jackets and sleeves-as long as there is enough fabric in the hem or seam to lengthen. A major increase, such as 1" or more would probably be a problem.

ALTERATIONS THAT SHOULD NOT BE DONE

If the garment needs to be lengthened and there is not enough fabric in the hem. Lengthening most garments about 3/4 of an inch or less will leave just enough fabric to turn under and re-sew.
Taking in garments that are more than 2 sizes too big. Three or more sizes too big will affect the garment's proportions, which cannot be fixed unless the entire garment is taken apart, a custom pattern is made for your body, and the garment is re-cut and re-made. This is a lot of work and will cost you dearly, that's if you can find someone willing to do it.
Letting out garments made of special fabrics like leather or velvet. Because the sewing machine needle puts tiny holes in leather, letting out the garment will allow the holes from the original stitching line to show. There is no way to fix this. Likewise on velvet, there is no way to stop the original stitching line from showing.
Letting out sequined or beaded garments. There may not be enough seam allowance to let the garment out and finding matching sequins or beads may be close to impossible. Also, the work involved in hand beading may cost you more than you paid for the garment, depending on how much needs to be altered.
Rips or tears no where near a seam. Any repair will show. The only exception would be if it can be covered with some type of embellishment or applique. This will only work if the style of the garment permits.
Raising the crotch in pants. Raising from the waist is not a good idea because it throws everything out of proportion, especially if there are pockets. Leave them in the store, give them away or sell them on eBay.

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